NAXOS | GREEK ISLANDS | CYCLADES

27 km from Hora. No cars permitted in the old district.
This charming marble-paved market village is one of the most beautiful in the Cyclades.
It was founded at the foot of Mt. Fanari in the 10th c. by Cretan refugees. Rich in folklore, it also has particularly interesting architecture.

A walk up its marble-flagged lanes will go a long way towards revealing its magic, since you’ll come to five museums; a ruined Venetian castle of the 13th c., known as Our Lady Aperatheitissa; Venetian manor houses, such as the 17th c. Zevgoli (Kastri-Somarippa) tower and the Bardani (Sforza-Kastri) tower, also 17th c., with the coat of arms of the Leontos family; two-storey stone houses with flower-filled courtyards and “twin” chimneys, gothic arches, attractive cafes, old churches and pretty small piazzas, like the square with the plane trees.

Of the museums, the most rewarding are the Archaeological Museum, with prehistoric finds, pottery and stone plaques with relief decoration, and the Geological Museum, which has a big selection of minerals from Naxos, Greece and other parts of the world. But do take a quick look at the other three, the Museum of Natural History, the Folklore Museum and the Museum of Handicrafts, where you can buy beautiful embroideries. The most distinctive churches in Apeiranthos are the Panagia Apeirathiotissa, one of the island’s oldest, with its fine icon screen and post-Byzantine icons, the Panagia Katapoliani and the Panagia Theoskepasti (both 17th c.).

Moutsouna

11 km from Apeiranthos, Moutsouna itself is a picturesque Cycladic village with rooms for tourists, little tavernas serving fresh fish, sandy and pebbly coves and extraordinary beaches nearby, most notably Psili Ammos. The drive down to the coast is breathtaking, as the scenery changes constantly.

Agia Kyriaki

Ask someone in Apeiranthos to show you the path to this beguiling little church (about 1 hour’s walk). It has 9th c. frescoes depicting birds and fish, in compliance with the Iconoclasts’ ban on the human figure. If you continue on another 15 minutes, you’ll come to Kalloni, a beauty-spot with springs and plane trees.

THE INTERIOR OF NAXOS

The circular route we propose here is fairly long and includes most of the major landmarks and sights in the interior of Naxos. This is the island’s most fertile area, with the villages and hamlets of central Naxos, a host of noteworthy Byzantine monuments and churches ranging from the 6th to the 11th century, as well as vestiges of its ancient heritage. We suggest that you make this tour with an experienced local taxi driver who is familiar with the sights, because many of these are located outside the villages and will be hard to find on your own. To see the principal landmarks you will need 3-4 hours. But to really get to know the area, two or more days will be necessary.

Melanes

A lush village 8 km east of Hora, set in a fertile valley with olive groves, orchards, streams and old water mills.

Kalamitsia

A partially signposted dirt road starting at the top of Melanes leads to Kalamitsia, 2 km away. Here, in a ravine with springs from which water runs even in summer, stands a half-ruined yet imposing 17th c. palatial mansion with thick stone walls and arches. It was the summer retreat of the Jesuit monks.

Kourounohori

In this village you’ll see the fortified residence of the Mavroyenis family and the Marco Sanudo-Frangopoulos-Della Rocca “country” mansion, which bears an inscription commemorating the visit in 1833 of King Otto. The Frankish Karavias tower-house lies behind the hill. A beautiful path starts from Kourounohori to the Archaic Kouros of Melanes, which if you have an hour to spare is the perfect approach to it.

The Kouros of Melanes

Not far from Melanes, at the hamlet of Myli, this ancient Greek youth lies “sleeping” next to a luxuriant vegetable and flower garden. The statue, which is 6.5 m tall, was discovered when the owners of the property were tilling their soil in 1943. It was roughly hewn at the Flerios marble quarry nearby in the 7th or 6th c. BC, but for some reason was never finished or delivered to its intended destination.

Kinidaros

Continuing on the road from Kourounohori, you’ll come to Kinidaros, a well-watered village smothered in greenery and known for its musicians and church fairs (panigyria).

Marble Quarries

The ancient marble quarries are situated a short distance south of Kinidaros, at Flerios. This was the source of the marble from which the skilful Naxian sculptors chiselled so many of the astonishing statues, monuments and architectural ornaments we see today in museums and archaeological sites in many parts of Greece. The famous Lions of Delos, the Treasury of the Naxians at Delphi, the massive kouroi and the delicate Early Cycladic idols are just a few of the countless masterpieces the island’s much sought-after craftsmen bequeathed to humanity.

Panagia Drosiani Monastery

This unusual church lies 20 km from Hora, below the small hill village of Moni. It is one of the oldest and most important Byzantine monuments in Europe. The original monastery was founded in the 6th-7th c.; what we see today is a 10th c. construction. Of the later buildings erected round it in the 12th c., nothing remains. From the outside the church seems a bewildering collection of domes and apses, a result of its eventual union with three adjoining chapels. Its rough-hewn stones give it an almost primitive appearance. Inside, its dark walls are covered with rare frescoes, some of which date back to the period before the Iconoclast Controversy and depict non-stylized human figures. Look for the one portraying the Virgin holding a disk bearing an icon of Christ. Painted at different times, sometimes on overlapping layers, the frescoes range in age from the 9th to 15th c.

Ano Potamia

A detour off the main road after Halki will take you to this pretty village, which resembles a vast garden, a true paradise with springs and streams, attractive little houses, little churches and a sprinkling of fortified mansions. Next to it a river has carved out a ravine, whose banks are thick with leafy plane trees and other tall venerable trees.

The Area South of Sangri

Just outside Sangri (if you’re coming from Halki), you’ll meet a junction beside a petrol station where you should turn left towards Agiassos. Almost immediately you’ll see looming on your left the austere, almost windowless bulk of the Timios Stavros monastery (16th c.). Although it is sometimes opened for exhibitions, you may have to ask its owners, the Bazaios family who live in one of the nearby houses, for the key. The family also own a collection of ecclesiastical memorabilia which they put on display on the day of the True Cross, September 14.

From there half an hour’s walk will take you to the extremely old, abandoned monastery of the Panagia Kaloreitsa or Kaloritissa (11th-13th c.), built in a stunning setting in a natural cavern on Prophitis Ilias hill. Not only is it interesting architecturally, it has rare post-Byzantine frescoes of the 17th c.

Near Timios Stavros, in a field on the right of the road toward the south, sits the long forgotten domed Byzantine chapel of Agios Artemios, which is decorated with nonfigurative representations of spirals, volutes, leaves and rhomboids dating from the period of the Iconoclasts (8th-9th c.).

Two kilometres further, the road leads to the partially restored Archaic temple of Demeter (6th c. BC), which was used for ceremonial rites. Climbing the steps of a beautifully paved and landscaped path, you’ll arrive at the temple where the restoration work is continuing. Some of the finds from the site and from Early Christian churches in the vicinity can be seen in the new museum to the left of the temple. Nearby, the Byzantine chapel of Agios Ioannis Theologos was erected using marble from the temple. The road from the temple of Demeter continues to the Gyroula district and will lead you to the south of Ano Sangri.

Ano Sangri

Built on a wooded hill with a pleasant view, this village boasts windmills, picturesque houses and important Byzantine and Venetian monuments. In the village itself is the old deserted monastery of Agios Eleftherios, which was once a considerable religious and intellectual centre. Not far to the north of the village, over a rutted lane, stands the restored Palaiologos tower (17th c.). The owners are usually in residence in August and may allow you to see the interior, giving you a fascinating glimpse of another era.

Church of Agios Mamas (9th c.)

Situated approximately midway between Sangri and Galanado. To get there you’ll have to walk on the only path for about 45 minutes; the uphill return will take about an hour. If you stop on the right side of the road underneath the sign, you’ll be able to make out this pretty church in the valley below some 2 kilometres away. Of enormous interest architecturally, it is dedicated to Agios Mamas, the patron saint of shepherds. This cross-in-square-type church is one of the oldest on the island and contains some noteworthy frescoes. It is said that it was the Orthodox cathedral until 1207, when the Franks converted it into a Catholic church. The building next to Agios Mamas was the country estate/residence of the Latin bishops of Naxos.

Belonia Tower-House

This imposing 17th c. fortified mansion commands the hillside above Galanado and the fertile Livadia plain with a view of Hora and the sea. It belonged to the Venetian lord of the district and may be visited in summer with the owner’s permission. Next to the mansion you’ll see the charming little “twin” church of Agios Ioannis. One of its chapels is Orthodox, the other Catholic.

Sanctuary of Iria

West of the road linking Galanado with the village of Glinado, off the road between Hora and the airport and next to the Naxos Holiday hotel, there is a decent dirt road that will take you to the ruins of the once important ancient shrine of Iria (ca. 1.5 km). The original structure was most probably built in the 7th c. BC and expanded a century later.
Although it is not known to which deity the sanctuary was dedicated, some say it belonged to Dionysos. It remained in use through Roman times.

FROM NAXOS TOWN TO APOLLONAS

This route follows the rugged coastline of northwest Naxos and will give you the chance to discover remote monasteries, romantic tower-houses and delightful coves.

Chrysostomos Monastery (17th c.)

This convent 3 km outside Hora is easily accessible from the road. A solid, fortified complex, it has a marvellous view of the sea and the Hora. It possesses a supposedly miraculous icon of St. Chrysostom. Near the convent is a chapel called Theologaki, a photographer’s delight since it has been carved out of a cave on a rocky knoll. The roadcomes to within 200 metres of it.

Ypsilis Monastery or Angelakopoulos tower (16th c.)

The monastery was built in 1660 by the Kokkos family. It has an exceptionally interesting interior and was initially dedicated to the Panagia Ypsilotera (Our Lady in the Highest). Because of its virtually impregnable design — it is the most heavily fortified building on the island — it was often used as a fortress-refuge where the Naxians sought refuge from pirates. And when the country people rose up against the Venetians, it was also here that they fled for protection.

The interior is divided into two levels around a court or atrium, which is approached by a dark, narrow corridor beginning at the entrance. The other three sides are occupied by cells and storerooms. Rising out of the southwest corner is a cylindrical tower with battlements, embrasures and a platform from where boiling oil could be poured on would-be assailants. The tower communicates with the flat roof via a low door and with the atrium by an internal stone staircase. Mid way down the fourth side of the atrium stands the monastery church, a post-Byzantine chapel. This evocative setting is completed by stone windowsills, ledges and half-moon ogival arches.

Panagia Faneromeni Monastery (17th c.)

You can get here from Ypsilis Monastery by taking the paved road a few kilometres further. Beautiful, dazzling white and in good condition, with stunning interiors, rare icons and a library.

Agias Tower and Monastery

The Agias fortified mansion dominates a strategic point between cape Abrami and Apollonas, controlling the northernmost section of the island. It lies alongside the road on your left; you can’t miss it. Down a short, thickly shaded path from the tower is the tiny church of Agias dedicated to the Virgin, next to a bubbling spring. The low buildings nearby were once monks’ cells. The tower is picturesque but abandoned.

Apollonas

34 km from Hora, on the coast road. Apollonas is a small resort built above a beach on the cove of the same name. Trees shade some of the small simple hotels and rented rooms, while there is also a little mole for boats. The area was known in antiquity for its good quality marble, hewn from the quarries near Emboli or Amboli hill. Many of the most talented sculptors of the day created the marvellous works dedicated to Delos at this spot. A bit to the north of the hill you can still make out the battered remains of a medieval castle called Kalogeros or the Monk.

The Kouros of Apollonas